Rome Day 2 part 3-Lost in Rome

Near the Parthenon there is a McDonalds. Most of the kids and adults go to use the bathroom there before we leave there. Not me though, I'm too interested in the Parthenon. So I decide to go after the Parthenon. McDonalds has one of the only free bathrooms in the area. The rest are restaurants. Even most public buildings you have to leave some change for the person who cleans the rooms. I go back to McDonalds after the Parthenon and there are now two street people in leather, one at the top of the stairs to the bathroom and one at the bottom, charging to use the bathroom. I don't think they were actually McDonalds' employees and I'm upset that they are charging so of course on principle I don't go. By the time we reach Piazza Navonna, I have a real need for a bathroom.

We look at the painters who have set up all of their wares for sale. My group says they could see me sitting here working as a painter and selling them. We find this man who spray paints his paintings. They are good and I think it's amazing and maybe Zoe's class at the high school could do this. We are by one of the lesser fountains at either end of the Piazza and I take this picture of the spray painter and these of the fountains. I find it interesting that the pigeon's love the fountain.

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After looking at a few of the painters I tell the other adults I need to use the restroom and what happened at McDonalds. I say that I'm going to see if this church, I learn is St. Agnes in Agony, has a bathroom and will let me use it. I go off from my group expecting that they are going to stay by the fountain. I go into St. Agnes where music is playing and Easter worshippers are in meditation. St. Agnes in Angony is of course another beautiful Italian church. There is a lady there selling postcards and such. I ask for a bathroom and I encounter my first non-English speaking Italian. Luckily another Italian man translates but the lady says no, no bathroom to use. I ask about pictures, another no, so I buy postcards of the beautiful church and go out to tell my friends. I take these three pictures before I go in.

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When I get out the door, they are gone. Absolutely gone. I think they must have gone shopping, which is what they wanted to do, in the little shops. I consider my options, I could go to the little shops and try to find them, I could wait here the entire time, but I need to use the bathroom. I don't really want to shop. I want to go to the Leonardo exhibit that I passed on the way here.

I decide to go back and try to find the McDonalds and pay if I have to. I can't find the McDonalds. I think it was at the Camap di Fiore, but find that no it was not at all. It was near the Parthenon and I've no idea how to get there. I could ask but urgency intervenes. I spy a bar, decide to go in, use the restroom and buy something, anything. I buy a really good bottle of mineral water and leave. I find the Leonardo exhibit we passed. This was the courtyard.

The exhibition is machines of wood built from Leonardo's drawings. In the courtyard hangs his flyer. I'm so excited! I'm in Rome. I've now seen Michaelangelos, Rhapaels, and now this!!! Leonardo!!! I'm in total art heaven.

Going inside I find it's a paying exhibit. I've picked up a few Italian phrases already the main one being "Quanto Costa?" I ask then see that there is a sign saying how much. The woman speaks English and realizing I'm lost for words she asks how many in English and I say one adult. I go into the most glorious exhibit of drawings and machines and wander there for a bit taking pictures.

This is Leonardo's music box. The woman is turning the handle and it's really playing!

I look briefly in the gift shop and buy a little calendar that has Leonardo drawings. I realize that maybe the others are worried about me and I'd best get back to the Piazza Navona.

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I leave the building and courtyard but realize I'm lost, really lost. I've turned the wrong way I think. I wander down the street. Everyone is speaking Italian, and I'm not afraid, but I am suddenly lonely wanting to hear English. I realize how it must be for the Hispanic kids who speak no English. I also want to share the experience of Rome with someone. I wish my husband were here. I remember what our director said when he left us at Piazza Navonna. That if we did get lost, duck into the shop and ask for Piazza Navonna and so I do. I later discover that most all shopkeepers speak English. Very smart of them to speak several languages.

On the way back I pass this painting on the side of the building which I've now seen three times. I really can't believe that paintings are everywhere.

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I've also passed this Sushi Sign now three times and think of Zoe W. I wish she was here sharing this too. See Zoe if I moved to Rome we could still go for Sushi.

Almost back to the Piazza I see this beautiful Italian woman selling reading glasses. I decide to take this picture for Dan. I've been seeing handsome Italian men everywhere, but she so far is the most beautiful Italian woman I've seen. Chiao Bella. I think you are a beautiful woman and I love your reading glasses they make a nice photo too.

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On the way back I stop to rest for just a moment and look at the shops. This pidgeon comes up and WILL NOT go away until I take his picture.

Everyone in Rome works, even the pidgeons.

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I get back to the Piazza Navona and find my friends. They had gone into the church, when I went in, were mesmerized by the ceiling and the beauty of the church and sat down to wait for me. I never even saw them go in. After waiting for me for a bit, they left and went shopping but kept circling the Piazza to look for me. I'm sorry I made them worry, but I did have fun off by myself. This is when I realize that if I learned the language I could really live in Rome. I love it here. The crowds, the energy, the art, the history. I would love to live here for at least 2 or 3 years.

But not yet, I sure couldn't support myself. I take comfort taking more pictures. The half light gives a pinkish glow to everything. The main fountain, which is under construction, is surrounded by fencing and I take the first three pictures through the fence. I find the shadows on the buildings lovely and take a picture of that and of the angel on the balustrude again while we wait for our group to join us.

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We meet our group and go to the restaurant Sotto Sopra where we dine on pasta first-Penne in Salsa Rosa, then Pollo al forno and veguire di Stagione, followed with desert Dolce della casa. Also the adults share a bottle of good house red wine. A lovely meal.

After the meal we go to get gelato at the Blue Ice Gelato shop. There are several flavors, but I'm trying to be good, so I choose only one the first night. Nutella. Mmmmmm Nutella. You can actually buy Nutella-chocolate with hazelnut, as a spread here in the U.S. I'd heard of it but never tried it. I LOVE it in gelato. Gelato is creamier than ice cream and so lovely to taste. I miss it now, but have been told there is now a gelatarie an hour from my home. My friend Dorian and I are going to check it out soon. Maybe zazzo-Zoe will come too.

After our gelato we walk back to the metro where we then take the metro to where we will take the bus. It is dark now and the lights are so pretty. This hotel reminds me of a hotel where near where my grandmother used to live that we would see at night. I especially remember the green glow of the light then, and it speaks to me now.

I take this picture to remind me of that and of this place and time.

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Our bus finally comes, drops us off for the ten min. walk back to the hotel. We meet briefly with Chris in the hotel lobby. Tomorrow the Michigan group with us for most of the trip will be going elsewhere. We will be going to Pompeii and the Herculaneum, then meeting up with the Michigan group for dinner and another walk around Rome. Wake up call is again at 6 am. It's 11 pm now. I want to get my cell phone working because I want to call Dan. The last time I called him was when we were stuck in Philly. I rent some time on the internet on the computer at the bar, but when I go to use it a teenager is on playing games and networking on facebook. I go back upstairs and Barbara lets me use her phone. I call Dan and tell him to pack I want to move to Rome. He laughs, but I'm somewhat serious, I'd like to live here two or three years. I tell him all about the Vatican and everything, and we hang up.

This time my roommate Barbara and I are both exhausted. We talk for a very few minutes but then go to sleep, I'm so happy and content here.

Rome Day 2 part 2 Campa di Fiore and Parthenon

After we leave the cafe of the heavenly lasagna, I am looking at my pictures, as I am reviewing to see which ones to delete I learn the first lesson of international travel. Do NOT touch whatever a street vendor comes up to you with. I am accosted by a vendor of scarves. The scarf is sheer with velvet and I do love scarves. I love the jewel tones on this one he holds it out and I touch it. He immediately starts in 10 euro. No I say, he offers 5 euro and I buy. Then he offers another and another, and then I am surrounded by 2 more scarf vendors. I end up buying scarves until I run out of money. I end up with 6 at 5 euros each. Not really too bad I find out later. I find these scarves where we go next Campa di Fiore-the open air market and they are 12 euro each.

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In order to get to the Campa di Fiore we take the metro. I suppose Rome metro and bus system is like most big cities, but I'm not used to it. When the doors to the metro train open people shove off and everyone shoves on and packs in literally. People move about and it's not too badly crowded. The bus we take after this though IS crowded and I wonder how on earth everyone fits in. But we end up at the right spot and take a 10 min. walk to the market.

I love, love, love the Campa di Fiore with it's open air flea market atmosphere. People and vendors and produce and everything except meat that one could want. The first stall I come to is a fruit and Veg. stall. I take these pictures there.

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I wander the market enjoying the sounds of people talking in Italian. The smell of the flowers and vegetables, the sounds of the street musicians. There are sax players, guitar players and a clarinet player. I am reminded of home and Dan as I listen to this guitar player. He's really good. I take his picture and drop some change in his guitar case.

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My friends and I go to the venetian murano glass sellars stall where I and some of them purchase many glass necklaces for 3 euro each. A really good price. Galye also gets a bottle stopper for the same price.

I take more pictures of fruits, vegetables, this vendor and the wonderful pecorino cheese which is the cheese of the heavenly lasagna. It's not cheap, I consider buying some and remember customs and don't but oh how I want some to make lasagna with and promise to find some at home.

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We gather where the tour director Chris is waiting at the fountain. The market is closing down, the men are taking down the stalls, the vendors are packing up, the garbage trucks are picking up garbage. A heated discussion between this vendor, another, and the guys taking down the tents develops. I don't know what they are saying but Chris is laughing and tells us they are cussing and in an argument. The argument part was evident even with language barriers.

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While waiting for all the kids I spot these lovers at a cafe and snap this picture.

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We meet up with our group and I'm walking with the girls from our group. I snap these photos of the flowers and the flower vendor as we leave the piazza. On Monday when we return here there will be very few vendors open and no flower vendor. But he was there this day and his wares were so gorgeous and sweet smelling.

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We walk to the Parthenon. They are restoring the outside of the Parthenon. Hannah, the teacher who arranged the trip laughs. The last time she was here they were restoring the other half and it had scaffolding. This time it's this half. Maybe next time she comes the whole thing will be done she says.

Here is the front and a detail of one of the supporting columns.

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There is a man there dressed in Centurion garb and I snap his photo. I don't realize till hours later that he is "selling" photos of himself dressed this way. There are many street actors and mimes who sell pictures and performances in Rome.

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The Parthenon is so very crowded on this day before Easter. It seems all of Italy wants to get in. We squeeze in as others are squeezing out. Still I am NOT prepared for the beauty inside. The light comes from the hole in the dome and there are statues and paintings everywhere.

Here is the opening in the dome and the main altar. The Parthenon is used as a church now. There were chairs there too set up for Easter.

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There is a painting of the Annunciation of Mary that I KNOW I have studied, but I can't remember who it is by. I take two pictures, one of the full painting and one of the detail that I remember from college art history class.

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Here is one of the many sculptures that are in front of the tombs at the Parthenon.

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Raphael is buried here. Here is Raphael's tomb altar and the two bronze angels in relief at each side of his tomb. I feel like I really am in the presence of greatness.

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Next up the Piaza Navona and how I get lost in Rome for two hours.

Rome Trip First full Day-Day 2 part 1

After a wake up call at 6:30 am. No there are no pictures of this event thank God, we had a hearty buffet breakfast at the hotel. I am so excited because this is the day we will visit the Vatican Museums, see the Sistine Chapel, and the Pieta. This is one of the main things I have taken this trip for. I've wanted to see The Pieta since I was 16 years old and studied Michaelangelo in High School.

We are ushered out the door promptly at 8:05 am. We have a reservation at the museum and if we miss it, it could be a two to three hour wait before we could get in. We walk the 15 min. walk to the Vatican museum entrance and indeed there is the beginning of a long line there. We meet Winfred who will be our guide here and at Ostica Antica and wait while Chris and Winfred get tickets and whisper phones for us to use. Once inside I see my first tapestry. It is rather small as far as the tapestries of the Vatican go but still fairly large and I take a picture. I am impressed by the size of the place already.

The first tapestry.

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Next we are given a run down of the general layout of the place by Winfred who is German and a very good Vatican guide. While in the square listening I view the millenium ball sculpture that rotates. I like it so I take a picture.

Then we are on to the square where the gardens are. There is beautiful Majolica on the tiles on the building. Here for my friend Dorian is a picture of some of them.

The actual gardens are private and we are not allowed down there, but I take a couple of pictures of where I suspect the pope often walks.

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In the entrance hall are many statues, among them Greek and Roman Gods and Goddesses. It is interesting to me that the church did not destroy these works but saved them and in some cases incorporated some of their ideas into the church. I remember reading that it won the hearts of the people at the time.

Here is an Egyptian statue.

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And a fertility Goddess

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Then we find this Diana. I have always liked Diana the Goddess of the Hunt. There are several Diana's there but this is my favorite. I particularly like that she is reaching for her arrow and I like the dog looking up.

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Shortly we come to this hall with the Grecian urn. A nice picture I think.

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Next up are the tapestry rooms. These tapestries are so colorful they look like paintings and it's hard to realize that they are really woven cloth. The detail is wonderful. These line a room that is about the length of a football field. The ceilings are trompe l'oeil and look very much like plaster sculpture.

A few of the tapestries and the faux ceiling sculpture.

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Then we are on to the map room. The amazing thing is that these maps are painted. And how did they KNOW what the land looked like. Here's a map of the city of Rome.

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We walk on into the Raphael rooms and I am almost moved to tears. I have a new favorite painter and his name is Raphael. The beauty and the glory of these paintings are awe inspiring. Here are a few paintings in his own style and a photo of the mosaic ceiling.

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Yes folks I am a glitzy girl and I LOVE this photo of God which is guilded with gold leaf.

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The problem with Raphael is that he can not be confident in his own style, or maybe he is mocking other painters which is certainly what Michaelangelo thought, but he does beautiful Boticelli faces and later paints big burly twisting figures like Michaelangelo.

Notice the beefy arms and figure with their back toward you. This is Raphael doing Michaelangelo.

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Now look at his most famous painting The Academy which totally blew me away with it's magnificance. This is Raphael at his best. His portrait of Michaelangelo as scribe is beefy, but Michaelangelo was a hefty sculpture. His Leonardo, his addition of himself , and his girlfriend are true beautiful Raphael.

Raphael's Girlfriend

Raphael himself

Michaelangelo

Leonardo on left

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After the Raphael rooms we go on to the Sistine chapel. I have no pictures of the Sistine chapel because photography is not allowed. It is not because of the delicacy of the painting, but because Sony paid for the restoration and now owns rights to all of the images.

But I notice that Michaelangelo's colors are not as bright as Raphael's. I also think "it's too busy," and I remember that Michaelangelo never wanted to be a painter. His love was sculpture. He only did the Sistine chapel because the pope promised to pay him money that was owed to him for previous work. They paid him half up front for the chapel and never paid him another dime. Still I find the back wall of heaven and hell intriqing. Michaelangelo has sent the people he did not like to hell on the hell side. A bit of painterly humor.

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We walk out of the main building and on to St. Peters. This is truly a heavenly place. The dome is beautiful as is the painting on the inside of the dome.

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There are many statues and paintings here where people are buried. Here is an angel extinquishing life and Teresea of Austria's tomb. She was quite a girl with a wild streak who still was buried here because she gave much money to the church.

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Next we come to what I've waited 37 years to see. The Pieta. Even blocked off by glass it is beautiful. But it is also surrounded by other admirers taking photos. I get my turn in to see it and to take photos. It is as lovely as I imagined it would be. Raphael may be the better painter, but NO one was better at sculpture than Michaelangelo.

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Walking around St. Peters we also see this statue and I'm impressed with the marble, how it was sculpted to look like cloth. Not as intricate as the Pieta, but amazing none the less and the color is striking.

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Finally we turn to the altar itself and the Berninni altar piece. St. Peters was set up for Easter so there were chairs but with a zoom lens I managed to capture some of the beauty.

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We exit into St. Peters square where they are also set up for Easter. Here's a photo of where the Pope comes out on the balcony every Sunday and underneath where he will come out for Easter. Also a picture of the clock and bell during day and the fountain during the day.

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At this point I am so happy I could end the trip here and be delighted. But there is more, oh so much more, that by the end of the day I will say that I want to move to Rome for the art and history.

After we leave the Vatican we go to the official Vatican gift shop where I buy a lady bug rosary for myself, Vatican coins for Dan, a Mary reproduction painting for me, Holy water for myself, several pill boxes with sites of Rome to give away, and many many postcards. Then it's off to lunch where I have the BEST lasagne I have ever eaten. The cheese is not Mozzarella or Parmesean, it is distinctly Roman, and I will tell you later what it is when I take you to Campa di Fiore which is where we go next, the wonderful Campa di Fiore open air market and the Piaza Navona, two of my very favorite places. Stay tuned for part 2 of day 2.